MessHall in Loz Feliz
MessHall, a gastropub housed in the 1920s famed Brown Derby building, serves up organic, seasonal fare. The juxtaposition of steel and wood gives this historic building a modern edge. Communal seating and lunch tray artwork touches upon the mess hall theme in a subtle and contemporary way. The hippest “mess hall” in Loz Feliz hosted a lively, packed crowd for a Thursday night.
The service was slow throughout the meal, but worth the wait. “Roll the Dice” cocktails, allowing bartenders the freedom to make whatever drink they want, are fun for those wanting to take a gamble on their alcoholic beverages. One cocktail was citrusy and not too strong, while the other was boozy and herbaceous.
To get the appetite going, the raw oysters were fresh and delicious, tasting like they had just come out of the sea. Three different sauces and lemon were included, allowing diners variety of flavor and the chance to mix and match.
The entrees were the stars of the meal. Short rib topped with horseradish creme fraiche, yukon mashed and roasted brussels was a filling, homey dish. The short rib was tender, and the horseradish sauce (needed more of it) gave the dish a kick. The mashed potatoes were rich, with an ideal consistency, and the brussels were cooked perfectly.
The baby back ribs were fall-off-the-bone amazing. Literally, they would fall off the bone when picked up to eat. The rub of brown sugar, molasses, rosemary, sage and thyme was delicious and unique. The meat and strong spices also made an appearance in the baked beans, a welcome surprise. Unlike the homey and traditional short rib dish, the baby backs were given a more modern spin. The only letdown was the slaw, which tasted more like plain shredded cabbage with a drizzle of oil than the creamy richness expected with a slaw.
Dessert entailed the banana cream jar pie with vanilla wafer, whipped cream, toasted almond and banana brûlée, which was gobbled up in about five seconds. Toasted almonds and bruleed bananas were a nice spin on the banana pudding and vanilla wafers classic. The dish needed more delicious vanilla wafers for the crunch factor in an otherwise soft dish. Sadly, there was no Mason jar to be found, so that element of the presentation was missed this time around.
Come to MessHall for the buzz in the room, the plaid-shirted waitstaff, the hip, modern environment and the fresh ingredients—especially the baby back ribs.
MessHall
4500 Los Feliz Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90027
323-660-MESS (6377)
Open seven days a week
Dinner nightly 5PM-11PM
Brunch on Saturday and Sunday
Late night menu on Friday and Saturday nights from 11PM-1AM